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Cuisine · Morning tea · a pot and two pieces

Cantonese Dim Sum

Morning tea is not breakfast. It is time occupied jointly by friends, a newspaper, har gow and a pot of pu'er. When the trolley passes you are not ordering dishes. You are ordering a reason to stay seated.

Where

Guangzhou / Hong Kong / Shenzhen

Season

Year-round

Stay

A long morning

Har gow wants a thin skin, a crisp filling, steam that is just enough. Siu mai holds pork and fish paste in a yellow wrapper. A char siu bun should slump sugar and sauce when it splits. Rice noodle rolls are silk made of rice. Each piece is small; together they are a southern city.

Guangzhou teahouses stretch the morning. The paper, the trolley, the speed of Cantonese — a complete etiquette. A visitor does not need to speak it, but should know how to wait, how to pour, and how to tip the lid for a refill.

Use morning tea as the key to Lingnan: fresh, steamed, unhurried. Close the day with roast meats or boat porridge and the palate completes a circle.