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Landscapes · Coloured pools · stacked falls

Jiuzhaigou

The water at Jiuzhaigou is blue past belief. Travertine, plants, altitude and light work together and turn the lakes into slabs of transparent stone. In autumn, gold and red burn along the banks.

Where

Aba, Sichuan

Season

Best September–November

Stay

Two to three days

The valley is a Y: Five-Colour Pool and Long Lake up Zharu, Pearl Shoal and Nuorilang on the Rize fork, Shuzheng linking the villages. The shuttle is the skeleton. Walking is how you actually see the water. Five Flower Lake wants both a high view and a bank.

You are at two to three thousand metres. Do not run on day one. Huanglong is often paired with Jiuzhaigou; they have different rhythms. The Tibetan village names — Heye, Shuzheng, Zharu — are a reminder this is not an empty park.

After earthquake and closures the valley is still putting itself back. Stay on the boardwalk. Stay out of the water. That is the minimum courtesy. A good trip takes the colour and leaves the stone.

What to do

  • Take the shuttle to the top of the valley and walk down. Everybody does the reverse and fights the crowd.